Here in Sohag we are visiting weavers. Big time weaving.

The Akhmim weavers work on huge hand-and-foot-and-assistant operated looms. We watched as the shuttle flew across the great width of the fabric, and the assistant manipulated the pattern by pulling on wooden bobbins hanging along the side. It was incredible to see. The fabrics they created were beautiful natural cotton and linen colors with patterns of subtle colors—gold, blue, brown and light green—heavy and fine. There were tablecloths large and small, bed covers, and clothing. Anwar, the owner of the workshop, showed us the newer, bigger building under construction that will house 17 looms that he will build himself. He employs not only weavers but several to string the looms, young women to finish the edges of the fabrics and others to iron and package the pieces. He hires a tailor to make the clothing too.

We made a quick visit to a Coptic Orthodox organization that teaches weaving to people who need assistance but don’t want to take charity. Proceeds from the goods they produce provide monthly salaries to the weavers and the young women doing the finish work.

Back at the workshop Anwar cleared the tables in his finishing room and began bringing us lunch—trip after trip from the kitchen with platters and bowls of traditional Upper Egyptian foods. There was fresh bread, tomato-cucumber-parsley salad, bamya—a soup of okra & tomatoes, rice and pasta, molakhaya—the green soup that apparently only I like, pigeons stuffed with barley, roast duck, grilled duck, and watermelon. It was all delicious and we were reminded of the great generosity of our Egyptian hosts.